Now Playing

Joel Teitelbaum, bar manager at Harry Denton's Starlight Room gets ready to carbonate a Negroni.

Pop goes the Negroni

The carbonated cocktail craze comes to the Starlight Room

Joel Teitelbaum seems a bit abashed when I ask, "Why carbonate a Negroni?"

But then the head bartender at Harry Denton's Starlight Room replies with an answer that's hard to argue with. "We do it," he says, "because we can."

There are far worse reasons for doing things, but I might suggest that Teitelbaum's fizzy blend of Beefeater gin, Campari, and Martini and Rossi sweet vermouth is not simply a capricious whim. Mixed in seltzer bottles and carbonated them with CO2, these drinks are delightful. And potent. Each 12-ounce bottle is the equivalent of two cocktails. It's crucial to serve them over ice, because while an undiluted Negroni is so strong that it can be hard to drink, a carbonated one goes down far too easy.
Harry Denton's Starlight Room 450 Powell St., S.F., 415-395-8595